Eye See London

The first night I was in London, I went for a little stroll down to Westminster Abbey and Big Ben. So exciting! Especially Big Ben because it's one of those landmarks that I've seen, and seen, and seen on TV, postcards, in books, etc. my whole life. And now I get to see it in person!

Then I went for a ride on the London Eye, a 450-foot-high ferris wheel that gives you an incredible view of the London skyline and the Thames. Bonus: thanks to the heinously long lines, I got to the top of the Eye just as the sun was setting...

A bit more York

...More charm, more cobbled streets, more big wooden cat doors?




Left: Part of the old city wall. The little wooden swinging cat door-type thing at the top was for the archers. They could lean out, fire on the enemy, and then the door would swing back down to cover them from return fire.

Right: The Shambles. Former meat market street, now a shopping street.

Days of Yor(k)

I spent a few days in York last week, which was time well-spent! What a great city! It's very charming with lots of narrow, cobbled streets and half-timber style buildings, a good portion of midievil wall, and a very cool gothic cathedral.
There's also quite a bit of history in York. Constantine The Great was named Emporer here (back when there was a Roman fort on the current cathedral site). York Minster is actually the fifth cathedral to be built on this site. Building on the current church was started in 1220 and took 250 years to complete. How long has it been since the US Constitution was signed? 230 years? Yeah, that's right. Cathedral building was no small event. Several people died during the construction (would you want to be laying stones on a tall building back in the 1200s? Not especially safe). I love looking at churches like this one and thinking of all the work and dedication that went into constructing it- not only the building itself, but the ornamentation . When you first step inside a large gothic church, it's immediately impressive: lots of stone columns, stained glass, high arches. But the stone carvings that decorate the walls, pillars, windows, and everyplace in between are what really get me. The carved figures aren't always what you would classify as typical religious images. The stone in York minster, for instance is dotted with crazy faces, wild animals, and all sorts of mischevious, gouhlish creatures. Here are some pictures of the detail, starting up close and zooming out: two little stone heads on top of a spire, the spire in between two arches, several arches under a window, several windows lining one side aisle of the church.

One Classy Lady

My mom, that is. How classy is she? So classy that she shares a birthday with the Queen Mother (may she rest in peace). And today is that special day! Happy Birthday, Mom! Since I can't volunteer to teach Bible School or Sunday School right now, I figured the next best way to give you a thrill would be to go have some fancy tea at a proper English tea house. So here I am at Betty's in York sipping Ceylon Blue Sapphire (and only slouching a little bit, look!). I'm sure you were there in spirit because what else could have motivated me to make a spectacle out of myself and take this cheesy picture in a busy public place? Cheers to you on your special day. I love you, Ma!

Nothing really rhymes with Hadrian...

...except Adrian. And I don't know anyone named Adrian. So there goes my plan to write an inspiring and eloquent poem about Hadrian's wall.
Anyway, around 130 AD the Romans were the force to be reckoned with in England, and the Roman emporer Hadrian fancied that it would be nice to build a large stone wall across Northern England. The main purpose of the wall was probably to keep out invading Scottish clans from the North (and all of their hairy coos). The wall stretched for 75 miles, with a gate and castle at each mile.
I wasn't quite up for inspecting all 75 historic miles, but I did visit the ruins at Housestead's fort (near Durham). Definitely cool to see, and, as is the case with most castles and forts, there was a great view. Dad, you asked for a picture of me and the wall. Since I'm such a devoted daughter, I got two.

"Hairy Coos to the right, arr!"

And now, ladies and gentlemen, we've come to the section of this blog where we discuss the most majestic of Scottish beasts: the hairy coo. Ok, so officially they're called highland cows, but that doesn't roll off the tounge as nicely as hairy coo. Below is Hamish, king of the hairy coos. So beloved is he that he has appeared on TV several times, has his own gift shop full of Hamish merchandise, and has several "lady friends."
Look how lovable! Note the massive amount of unruly, reddish hair. I feel your pain, dude.

Martin, the Scottish tour guide, was especially fond of pointing out whenever the bus drove by a field with hairy coos. "Hairy coos on your right, everyone, hairy coos on the right, hairy coooooos!"
Another thing Martin was fond of saying: "Arr!" (yes, like a pirate)
It seems that "Arr!" is a most versatile exclamation. Depending on the circumstances, it can either mean "Heck, yeah!" or "That sucks!"
Lesson 1:
"Would you like to stop for tea and biscuits?" -"Arr!"
"You have to pay to use the toilets." -"Arr!!"
"Hairy coos to the right!" -"Arr!!!"

Bonnie Scotland

The parts of Scotland that I saw on the bus tour were intensely beautiful. Very green, with lots of hills and mountains, lakes, huge skies, and heather all over the place. I had a hard time choosing which pictures to post, partly because I'm a marginal photographer so none of the pictures quite do justice to how gorgeous it really is. The first two pictures are on the Isle of Skye (on the West coast), the third is at Glencoe in the highlands, and the fourth is the obligatory Scottish bagpiper.

Bus tours: a shout out.

Thanks, Dad for pointing out the Radical Travel website on the last post. Don't know why I didn't think of that earlier. I'll put it in my Links. If anyone is headed over to Great Britain or Ireland, and wants a cheap, lively way to experience the country, I recommend these guys. All you need is a sense of humor and a willingness to sleep in hostels. Want a better idea of the atmosphere on a bus tour? Allow me to illustrate:

Shamrocker tour friends in Ireland

Haggis Tour friends in Scotland
Dave the bus driver hunting Haggis in the Highlands (don't ask questions, just laugh)

I'm selling my story to Dateline

Loch Ness in the evening: behold the mystery.

*Gasp* "Look out the window! It's that terrifying Scottish she-beast of the Lake, Nessie! Stay below deck-we're all going to meet a watery demise! Oh, the humanity! Save us, Lord, from this terror from The Deep! "

Friends on the boat after the bone-chilling Nessie hunt.

Actually, there are some creepy things in Loch Ness. As you can imagine, researchers have done umpteen dives, scans, etc. in the lake, and the boat that we took has a live 3-D sonar monitor that you can watch as you cruise the water. There are a couple kinds of rather large carnivorous fish that live there, as well as a family of 18 "large creatures" that live near the bottom.

Two days after the boat ride, we went back to the lake and stood on the shore shouting, "Come to me, come to me, Nessie, Nessie!" to see if we could inspire an appearance. (No, it wasn't my idea. It was the Scottish bus driver's-I promise!" No luck, though.

After much careful thought and logical deduction, I've decided that Nessie probably isn't after human flesh. Seriously, with all those big fish taking up space in her lake, why bother with a couple of polyester-coated people? I'm sure she just surfaces occasionally to monitor for urban sprawl, check the latest Spring fashion trends, and find out who won the World Cup. You know, the usual.

Edinburgh: great city! It's just fun to walk around and take everything in-a good intro to Scotland! Here's Scott's Monument upclose and personal, and a view of the city from Edinburgh Castle. The Castle was OK as far as castles go. Pretty over-priced, actually. Ok, I take that back; it was worth the money during the hours that I visited. There's a tiny little midevil chapel at the top of the castle grounds. Apparently, members of the military can use it for weddings, and there was one going on when I got there. Tourists can't go in the chapel (obviously) while there is a wedding taking place, so there was a big group of site-seers that just kept growing and growing on the hill outside the chapel waiting to see the bride and groom come out. Finally, when the wedding party and guests came out of the church, they were met by this huge group of strangers who just started cheering and applauding. Great moment.

I like the Scott's Monument (for Walter Scott the writer) because it just sits in the middle of a big shopping street and looks glorius in the sun.

Come fly the (cheap) friendly skies

I'm loving Scotland! Edinburgh is a great city, definitely has it's own personality. I flew in on Easyjet yesterday from Belfast. Europe has a heap of really inexpensive, no frills airlines. This particular flight cost me about £25 (that's just under $50) when all was said and done. The flight lasted all of 25 minutes. Ironically that was the exact amount of time it took me to then take a bus from the Edinburgh airport to the city center. Crazy.

I just like this one

Killarney National Park

It's the end of the world as we know it (and I feel fine)

On this day, we visted the Dingle Peninsula and went for a little jaunt on the Slea Head drive. This is down in the Southwest corner of Ireland. In fact, it's the Western-most point in Europe. Right at the edge of the world...sing a little REM with me now, people! This day was pretty foggy, but I liked it-very mystical!

Another lovely day for a swim

Here we have some pictures from Fanore Beach. My preconceived notion of an Irish beach was something cold, rocky, windy, and misty. But as you can see, it was a beautiful day! Quite a few people there, too (despite what it looks like in the photo). Lots of families, people trying to learn how to surf, fun stuff!
The other picture is from when we went for a little stroll up Croagh Patrick. Also gorgeous weather. Ok, yeah. I'm not really sure what a Croagh is. I don't believe it was tall enough to be a mountain...it was bigger than your average hill with lots of grass, rocks, a stream, and a couple of monks live on top of it. I'll find out the precise definition of croagh, don't worry.

Ireland: the saga continues

Ok, so now I'm in Belfast, about to head over to Scotland. But the blog fun is limited, folks, because I still can't post any pictures. Brace yourselves for a huge photo bolus as soon as I get my hands on some wireless internet! So, I lieu of pictures, I'll just blab some more about my travels in Ireland. Ahem. Ok. So on the 17th I left Dublin for a six day backpackers' tour of the Republic of Ireland. There were 17 of us; 4 guys, 13 girls. 5 Americans (including me), 2 Canadians, 2 South Africans, and 8 Australians. Plus a comical tour guide and one crazy (but very knowledgable) bus driver (you know who you are, Patricia). We basically drove around in a yellow bus, visiting the lovely sights of Ireland, went to pubs at night, slept in hostels, and generally had a great time. It was especially nice to just hang out with a group since I've been doing the loner approach to travel for the last couple of weeks.
After the tour, I went to Northern Ireland to the Antrim coast. I stayed in Portrush, which is kind of...I don't know... the Coney Island of Ireland? Ok, not quite. It's a touristy destination on the coast with lots of arcades, bingo, fried food, you get the idea. Fun spot for parents to take their kids. Can't say I would go back, but it was nice and close to the Giant's Causeway, which was cool to see. Most common phrase heard in Portrush: (mother to small child) "Get into your pram!" hehe.
Belfast is a cool city, though. And now I have to sign off because the time on my internet meter is ticking away...

The picture I put in is me on the Giant's Causeway near Portrush (Northern Ireland). The legendary Irish Giant, Finn Macool built it to get his giant self across the sea to Scotland. For those of you who prefer your stories sans giant, there's a local myth about volcanic rock cooling, cracking, and shifting around. Suuuuure it did.

Don't worry, mom-I'm not anemic. Guiness is high in iron.

So no wireless service again today, and therefore pictures will come later. Just got back from my 6 day bus tour of the West coast and Southern Ireland. Had a blast, met some cool people! Got to go to the beach (and it was sunny)! Saw loads of beautiful countryside and coast line. Ate lots of yummy pub food (translation: variations on beef and potatoes).
I've actually been thinking about friends from work and home quite a bit (lots of chances for reflective thinking while looking out of a bus window). Nothing too philosophical, but one of the cool things about travel is having little moments in a far away place that remind you of home. Example: Somebody had a Bon Jovi craving on the tour bus and played "living on a prayer." Why is singing along to that song an uplifting and unifying experience? I immediately thought of a recent night shift that I worked with my lovely coworker, Patty C. I've blocked the exact circumstances from my mind, but it was a really crazy night, and at around 4 am we put on Patty's Bon Jovi cd and sang along to an especially heartfelt rendition of Living on a Prayer. Horrors, Patty. Horrors. :) I guess the relevance of Bon Jovi's music transcends space and time? Ok I'm being saracastic. But I do like singing along to Bon Jovi-with backpackers in Ireland and awesome nurses.

When Irish eyes are smiling

So, Ireland....where to start! Got here Friday and bopped around Dublin for a few days. Had some Irish stew, had some Guiness, met some lovely Irish people. Monday I started a bus tour that's making a big loop from Dublin to the West coast, South, and then back to Dublin. So far so good-except it's warm! Ok, it's not Minnesota in August weather, but it is pretty sticky. I'm getting to go to a lot of places that I wouldn't have been able to get to by myself. And I've met some really nice people. These pictures are from last night in a pub in Westport, which is kind of in the Northwest corner of the Republic of Ireland. Musicians just basically show up in certain pubs at night and have these jam sessions where make an impromptu band and play traditional Irish tunes.

The man in the first picture came in and charmed the pants off of everybody by singing and telling jokes for about half an hour. Then he turned his attention on the baby and really found a captive audience. The other picture was kind of an accidental shot, but I kind of like the way it turned out. It's hard to capture the movement that comes with a live performance in just one shot.

Lovely day for a swim, mate!

Friday, July 14th. Biggest decision of today: whether or not to take Dramamine before getting on the ferry from Wales to Ireland. I didn't. The boat goes pretty fast. There were a few touchy moments. I drank some horribly over-priced pop. I was fine.
My experience with boats is pretty limited (to canoes). So this was kind of a thrill.
P.S. It's really windy on the deck of speedy Irish Sea ferries. Had I been wearing a skirt, I would have had the biggest Marilyn Monore moment in the history of wind and skirts.
But it was a great day for a boat trip-look how blue!

I'm looking for a modest home in the country...

So here's where I was crowned ultimate and eternal queen of Conwy castle. I plan doing some dramatic, but tasteful redecorating. Don't worry, there will be plenty of space for guests.

I wonder: if the first inhabitants of this castle saw it today, would they be heartbroken to see it as a shell with weeds and tourist litter in the King's Hall? Or would they be shocked that there is anything left of it at all.

That's Wales (no h)

No pictures this time, sorry. I'm at a public library computer, so I can't upload anything off of my camera. Speaking of computers, the program on this one is called rhwydwaithybobl@ eich llyfrgel," which apparently means "the people's network at your library." Sure it does...
The Welsh seem to be in competition with the Polish for most consecutive consonants used in a single word or sentence. The language sounds very graceful when a native person speaks it, though. Wales is a nice area; kind of under rated, I think. The South had kind of a gritty, industrial feel to it, but the North is really pretty. The place where I've been staying the last two nights is about 20 yards away from an old castle-cool! And I got to go hiking for a bit yesterday, which is always refreshing.
OK, I'm sticking some pictures in after the fact. Here's some shopping in Cardiff (South Wales), and a picture of the medieval town wall in Conwy taken from my bedroom window (North Wales)

Flights of angels sing thee to thy rest...

Probably the same flights of angels that were belting out the hallelujah chorus when I got upgraded to Business Class. (Yes, I'm still raving about that. Seriously. Fully reclining seats with legrests, people!) Anyway, the bottom picture is Trinity Church in Stratford where Shakespeare is buried. Last night was a treat because I got to see a performance of Romeo and Juliet at the Royal Shakepeare Theatre! I suppose you could say that this performance was miles away from a lackluster reading in High School English class, but you know what? I still wait for the same favorite parts that I had in Mrs. Springer's class. One of the German students sitting in front of me sobbed through the last half hour of the play. I was touched.

The hardest part of today: talking myself out of spending $16 on a set of Shakespearen insult magnets. To make up for my lack of magnets, I've commited my favorite insult to memory and plan to integrate it seamlessly into my everyday conversation. That's right. I got a kick out of the touristy Shakespeare souveniers, thou crusty botch of nature!

Happy Birthday, Dad!

(Birthday Kiss)
And yes, when I referred to neolithic Englishmen putting up great stone structures I was in fact talking about you putting up the rockwall in the backyard; way back after you crossed the landbridge, led your tribe to Montana, and discovered flint in the basement. Hope you're having a great birthday. I think I'll attend a Shakespearean play in your honor...

Older Than Dirt (almost)

So today was Stonehenge day, which was awesome! Stonehenge has been in England longer than the wheel (no joke, folks). AND when the neolithic Englishmen decided to build Stonehenge (and no one knows for sure why they built it), did they say to themselves, "Gee, we haven't discovered the wheel yet, let's go easy on ourselves and use some local rocks for this project."? Oh no, they did not. They went and hauled stones all the way from the mountains of Wales. It was worth the effort, though, in my opinion-so incredible to see. It feels like, if you look at it long enough, you'll be able to figure out what the secret is.
Stonehenge isn't the only stone circle in the UK. The Avebury circle (bottom picture) is much bigger, and has about 50 resident sheep. Veeeeery mysteeeeerious.

Wells (Thursday)

Thursday I went to Wells, which is about an hour bus ride from Bath. Very cute little city. The cathedral, St. Andrew's, has these really incredible scissor arches near the front. Apparently "Lulu" the cat adopted the cathedral as her home several years ago, and now roams the grounds at will. Many of you will not be surprised to hear that I was super excited to find an orange and white tabby cat sitting there waiting for me to pet her. In order to preserve my dignity, I won't disclose how many Lulu pictures I have.

This One's For the Girls

A closetful of 18th Century Dresses in the costume museum. Excuse me while I have a Pride and Prejudice moment. And, just your average tub: the Roman Baths in the evening. Also? It rained. All day. But that's ok because somebody got me a travel umbrella for my birthday! Thanks, woodie!

Bath (speaking of, I finally got my shower!)

I like to take pictures of places at night. It's kind of like taking a candid photograph of a person.

This is the Bath Abbey, rebuilt in 1500. Older than anything in my hometown, but a baby compared to the baths it sits next to. The English city of Bath is so-named because the Romans built baths and a temple here in 65 AD.

I have arrived!

Well, here I am in the good old UK. In the last 24 hours, I have packed up all of my earthly possesions, moved out of my apartment, said goodbye to my roommate, my cat, and my family, and dragged my luggage around for what must be approaching 12 frillion miles. Got here this morning at 5:30 am, and so far so good-except I really need to shower! So when I checked in for my flight in Minneapolis, the ticket agent said, "For just $458.01, you can upgrade to business class," and I didn't because, hey, it was $400. But then I got to the gate in Chicago, and they upgraded me for free on my transatlantic flight! Awesome! For those of you who have never flown business or first class (I hadn't), it's the best! I reclined the whole way, drank champagne, had filet mignon for dinner, and watched, like, 20 movies. I'm spoiled for life now. Much more to say, but the internet cafe is really hot, and I haven't eaten for....a while.